Tools

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Last Friday my first set of deWit forged garden tools arrived: a trowel, a 3-tine cultivator, and a handfork. It takes a lot to impress me when it comes to things and I am delighted to say that not only have these tools done just that but I will not give any think to purchasing anything lesser quality.

Even though deWit was established in 1898 in Holland, I only learned about this 5th generation company recently. No part of these tools comes from China and they all have a lifetime guarantee!

After eagerly opening the package I couldn’t wait to lift one out of the box and run my hands over it, the steel feels like no other garden tool. Upon running my hand across the trowel I was instantly beamed back to my childhood, my father had a backhoe and I loved running my palms against the silky smooth blade that only seemed to get better the more it was used.

I was also wondering if these tools would be too heavy for hours of work but that idea was completely erased from my mind the second I lifted the trowel from the box. They don’t have too heavy a weight to them even thought they’re thick, fantastic!

How I wish I had known about deWit garden tools when I had my landscape business, it drives me insane to have to buy new rakes and shovels once or twice a year because they just don’t hold up well, not to mention they are not even comfortable to use. The good news is, I found deWit tools and I am sold for life!

Can you hear me doing the happy dance and singing “I can buy my garden tools once and never need to replace them again”? Such music to my soul.

The wood for the handles is European Ash that comes from FSC controlled forestry. The steel is Swedish boron steel, you can compare this with the same steel that Caterpillar is using for their digging machines.

Sietse deWit told me, “people come to our factory with a 60 yr old spade to get a replacement handle or to show us it is still going strong.”

You can’t say that about any tool sold at box stores in the USA.

The other thing that impressed me was the price, fine quality forged tools that are so tough they’re guaranteed for life, only cost a bit more than the so-so quality. The handles and blades don’t bend when you put pressure on them. These are an investment for the rest of your life.

If you’re like me and prefer to buy things ‘once’ in your lifetime, and Will them to your kids, I highly recommend deWit tools.

~~ deWit garden tools can be purchased here at Garden Tool Company ~~

I can’t wait to order their shovels, rakes, a sickle, their tree planting hoe (what a back-saver that one must be!), a couple of different sized axes… OK I’ll stop here, I know I sound like a kid in a candy store who says, “I’ll take one of these, and one of those, oooo and I can’t live without one of these, and oooo look I HAVE to have…

Try one and you’ll see what I mean, then come on back here and tell me what you think in the comments! I would love to hear your impressions.

Evelyn Vincent Evelyn Vincent

Native Plant Landscaper, Gardener, Labyrinth Design, Feng Shui Practitioner,  Aromatherapy / Essential Oils, Big Fan of Nature and Living Simply.

"There is nothing in a caterpillar that tells you it's going to be a butterfly."
~ R. Buckminster Fuller

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“Building Green” is a two word phrase that has two parts to its\’ definition.

It means to design and build a structure in such a way that the actual construction has minimal impact on the environment including the processing of the construction materials, the movement of the materials and the physical impact it has on its’ environment.

It also means to design and build a structure in such a way that it minimally impacts the environment during use, whether it is used for housing or as a commercial structure, including light, heat and water as well as the immediate and downstream environs.

A few years ago I was reading the September issue of “New Life Journal“ (the print edition) and inside they have a section called “Green Home Resource Guide.” It highlights various so-called green technology and has an interview with someone working in the green building industry.

In this issue they talked with Maggie Leslie of the WNCGBC (Western North Carolina Green Building Council about their “Healthy Built Home” (HBH) Certification and what it means to be green. The WNCGBC says the HBH is a guideline as well as a certification.

I wholeheartedly agree that a rating system is a good idea but I differ with the way the WNCGBC has done it. A lot of the stuff they promote – such as insulation wrapping the entire unit – isn’t really all that green. It may be energy efficient but not that green.

This got me to thinking: what exactly would it take for a building to be truly green? Just from the article my gears started turning and some ideas started to crop up. This article is to start a dialog trying to pin down what it is to be building green and ways to determine how green your home is.

I’ll get the ball rolling.

Ideally, a 100% green home would…

  1. use only materials found on site, or nearby, that requires no man-hours or fuel to be useable in the structure (does not need cut or shaped, etc.).
  2. use only materials provided by nature (no plastic, styrofoam, fiberglass, etc).
  3. maintain a comfortable living temperature all year round without the use of any heating or cooling source.
  4. have enough sunlight penetration during daylight hours to do 90% of whatever you want to do without the additional use of energy to produce light. I say 90% because there are times (dependent upon what you are doing) when you will need a little extra light.
  5. provide its’ own water without tapping into municipal mains or wells drilled into the water table.
  6. minimize the impact its’ design has on the environment by providing at least as much new ground surface as it uses for its’ footprint.
  7. use no power tools during construction.
  8. requires no maintenance

Whereas, a 100% (with 0 being halfway) non-green home would…

  1. use only materials brought great distances and/or require many man hours and a lot of fuel to prepare them to be useable in the structure.
  2. use nothing but man made materials or extensive use of manmade chemicals in the manufacturing process.
  3. require extensive heating and cooling systems.
  4. be sealed so that no light can penetrate to the interior requiring extensive use of artificial light.
  5. tap into the water table or municipal water supply.
  6. not take into consideration the environmental impact its’ footprint has on the environment.
  7. make use of heavy and specialized tools and equipment during construction.
  8. require constant work to keep it in useable condition.
A 0% green home would use one half green building techniques and materials and one half non-green building techniques and materials. The two essentially balance each other so the net effect is zero.

Granted these are two extremes with the first being perfectly green and the latter, well, the absolutely worst case scenario. What would you add or subtract to the above lists? How would you calculate how green some aspect (such as a heat source or water catchment) of building green is? Would you add it to the non-green method or subtract it from the green method?

For example: for every 5 miles something has to go from source to the building site you subtract .1%, so, something that has to move 100 miles would subtract 2% for a total of 98% green. (100 / 5 * 0.1) NOTE: 5 miles is about a half hour of unobstructed, unburdened walking. It also gives an area of almost 25 square miles to search for stuff.

Now it’s your turn.

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Curt SitersCurt Siters

Webmaster

Shoals Creek Village - a new build intentional community.

My Eco Oasis - the hub for what will be a network of many ecovillages.

Big fan of living simply

Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better.  ~Albert Einstein

Man's heart away from nature becomes hard.  ~Standing Bear

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BroadforkThis simple and primitive looking tool, the Broadfork, is one I highly recommend every garden. The Broadfork is used to loosen and aerate soil without causing disturbance to the beneficial organisms and ecology in your soil layers. I prefer using a Broadfork over using a rototiller any day. I find the Broadfork to be in alignment with my gardening philosophy, which is; observe, learn, then do only that which sustains all beneficial life-forms in the garden, and whenever possible avoid using things that keep us dependent on outside sources (such as: gas, oil, manufactured equipment that can and will breakdown). The Broadfork is going to out-live any rototiller and it does not require any form of energy once it’s manufactured, other than your own – which makes it useful in weight-control and provides many other health benefits.

Using a Broadfork will also not allow weed seeds, which are hidden in your soil to come close to the surface of the soil and germinate; which is always the reality when using a rototiller or double-digging. Continue reading “How To Use a Broadfork (instead of digging garden beds)” »

Evelyn Vincent Evelyn Vincent

Native Plant Landscaper, Gardener, Labyrinth Design, Feng Shui Practitioner,  Aromatherapy / Essential Oils, Big Fan of Nature and Living Simply.

"There is nothing in a caterpillar that tells you it's going to be a butterfly."
~ R. Buckminster Fuller

Follow Me on Pinterest

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The other day I was digging a trench to run water into the new laundry here at Earthaven. The trench was to be at least 18″ deep to get it below frostline and had to run about 25′ to the main water line and remove enough earth to be able to tap into the main water line. All told I would remove over 37 cubic feet of earth (about a third of a ton) – mostly red clay. Fortunately, the red clay was soft and the spade could slice through it easily. It would take me three hours working at a moderate pace to accomplish.

spade cut thickness

My spade blade is 9″ wide by 12″ long. It would take two blade lengths to get deep enough. One spade width is sufficient. I also only took about 6″ bites to keep the load lighter just in case any rocks (which weigh about 100lbs per cubic foot) should appear in that blade full of earth.

To reduce strain on the handle I can only put the blade into the ground as far as the shoulder on the blade and use the shoulder to lever out the blade full of earth.

If your blade isn’t sharp you may find yourself jumping on the shoulder of the blade to get it to cut into earth. If your blade isn’t sharp, on soft ground this won’t be necessary and only stepping on the shoulder will suffice.

Step method for digging a trench easily

I will dig using what I call “steps” where I start (after digging the initial hole) by taking out 2 loads one blade length down from the ground surface and then 1 load down from that step. I then do one from the top and one from the step – keeping this rhythm going until I reach my destination.

The earth is placed uphill from the trench to make refilling it easier and to not lose the earth in the grass and plants down hill. It will also help to keep run off from any rain from filling the trench until the line is actually in place.

For choosing a spade or shovel, or to learn more about them, see my article on Selecting and Using Tools: Shovels

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Curt SitersCurt Siters

Webmaster

Shoals Creek Village - a new build intentional community.

My Eco Oasis - the hub for what will be a network of many ecovillages.

Big fan of living simply

Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better.  ~Albert Einstein

Man's heart away from nature becomes hard.  ~Standing Bear

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Is it a spade or a shovel – what’s the difference?

Parts of a spade

Shovels and spades have been around a very long time and are used in various ways from gardening to landscaping – so long in fact that the design cannot be improved. You will see all kinds of “flashy” things added – wider shoulders, different handles, additional handles, curved shafts – but these really do not change their design.

A shovel is a tool with a handle and a broad scoop or blade for digging and moving material, such as dirt or snow. Handle lengths and blade lifts are important to balance and efficient shoveling. Low-lift blades and irrigating shovels are best for digging and turning soil while regular-lift shovels and scoops are for moving and throwing earth and other materials.

A spade is a sturdy digging tool having a thick handle and a heavy, flat blade that can be pressed into the ground with the foot.

Many people call a shovel a spade and vice versa. According to the dictionary, a spade, deriving from the Latin word spatha, is a long-handled tool with a flat blade that is pressed with the foot and used for digging, while a shovel is a long-handled tool with a broad scoop used in lifting and moving loose material. Ultimately you dig with a spade and you shift stuff with a shovel. And both can be used for both the purposes. Continue reading “Selecting and Using Tools: Shovels” »

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Curt SitersCurt Siters

Webmaster

Shoals Creek Village - a new build intentional community.

My Eco Oasis - the hub for what will be a network of many ecovillages.

Big fan of living simply

Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better.  ~Albert Einstein

Man's heart away from nature becomes hard.  ~Standing Bear

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When I was growing up in the 70′s and 80′s I wasn’t really a big fan of bread. I would eat sandwiches and, if I was really hungry, I might eat the bread you got at restaurants before the main course was served.

That all changed when my girlfriend and I settled into Seattle and I decided to start baking our bread. We found a book called “The Breads of France” that had a recipe similar to my girlfriends favorite bread from Bread Alone in Woodstock, NY. The end result was bread I could eat because it tasted good and my body said “Ooooooo Yeaaaaa! That’s it!”

The recipe below, however, is not a bread from the book. It is a simple bread based upon several different recipes and is quite pleasant in its form. The size makes it easy to take along for a treat on a special picnic or to make your lunch at work special. The crust is solid but not hard. The crumb (the center part with the air spaces in it) is firm. I have been able to slice it 1/8th of an inch thin without it falling apart which gives you a wide range of possibilities in making meals or hor d’eouvres.

It toasts great. Even at 1/8th of an inch it can be toasted for 3 1/2 minutes and will be crispy and not burned. Continue reading “Mountain Bread” »

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Curt SitersCurt Siters

Webmaster

Shoals Creek Village - a new build intentional community.

My Eco Oasis - the hub for what will be a network of many ecovillages.

Big fan of living simply

Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better.  ~Albert Einstein

Man's heart away from nature becomes hard.  ~Standing Bear

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Canada Geese at dawnEven though we are having a bit of a cold snap right now, Spring is here.

A few weeks ago the frogs emerged and started croaking and mating. The crocus have made their way back into the world of sunshine. As have the daffodils.

This morning I heard the call of Canada Geese as they are making their way back north to their mating grounds.

So I guess this means it is really time to get started on preparing for the new season – starting our seeds, preparing the garden, planting, making sure our tools are in working order, etc.

Living off the grid entails some compromises – like conserving energy. As such we don’t have a lot of light available at night to work on things in doors, so we have to optimize our daylight hours to make sure we get stuff finished up from the previous year and maintenance done that needs to be done. However, now with the longer days we can handily finish what we couldn’t get done in preparation for this year.

Looking forward to it.

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Curt SitersCurt Siters

Webmaster

Shoals Creek Village - a new build intentional community.

My Eco Oasis - the hub for what will be a network of many ecovillages.

Big fan of living simply

Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better.  ~Albert Einstein

Man's heart away from nature becomes hard.  ~Standing Bear

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It is very important to maintain your tools by keeping them clean and free of rust, properly adjusted and sharp. You also need to do some repair if the metal is deformed like the point on a pick (it tends to get blunt when striking rock) or the tip of your spade.Garden Tools

Supplies and tools needed:

  • Files – several different sizes and shapes
  • Screwdrivers
  • Hammers
  • Saw sets
  • A bench vise
  • Steel wool (several grades from rough to fine)
  • Medium to Light oil – such as 3-in-1 oil
  • Sharpening stones and slip stones – I recommend water stones as they don’t clog easily
  • Grinder – I recommend a bench grinder and not one you use with a drill
  • Soapy and fresh water
  • Shop towels
  • Metal Polish
  • Linseed Oil

General Procedure

  1. Clean the tool with soap and water and towel dry. Let air dry in the sun a little longer to be sure it is dry
  2. Make note of any and all damage
  3. Disassemble if possible – keep track of bushing, nut and bolt locations for re-assembly
  4. Use steel wool and 3-in-1 oil to remove any rust
  5. Use files and grinders to remove any damage and restore the tool to its original shape or restore the edge
  6. Some edges only need filing but others will need sharpening so proceed with the stones to make the edge razor sharp
  7. If the tool initially had a polished finish polish the surface now
  8. Apply a light coat of 3-in-1 oil to the metal parts to keep moisture at bay
  9. Apply varnish or linseed oil to wood parts to keep the wood in good condition
  10. Re-assemble if you had to dis-assemble

Shop Plow & Hearth’s Selection of Garden Tools & Supplies – Click Here!

Other posts you may enjoy:

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Curt SitersCurt Siters

Webmaster

Shoals Creek Village - a new build intentional community.

My Eco Oasis - the hub for what will be a network of many ecovillages.

Big fan of living simply

Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better.  ~Albert Einstein

Man's heart away from nature becomes hard.  ~Standing Bear

Tags: , ,